Cognac Review

Review: Tiffon Tres Vieille Reserve Grande Champagne Cognac by Jason Hambrey

Pierre+Ferrand+Renegade+Barrel+2.jpg
ABV
40%
Aging
80 yrs
Recipe
Grande Champagne Grapes
Distiller Tiffon (Jarnac, France)

Now here is a rather impressive one. 95% of all cognac is produced by 5 massive companies, but there are a handful of small, family owned cognac producers who give out some excellent product often for a very reasonable price. Here is one.

Ages for this product on the internet are different – some say 70 to 80 years, some say 90 – but Tiffon’s website says the cognacs in this blend are all more than 80 years old. Wow! There is some very old cognac in here and all the grapes are from the best region of cognac, Grande Champagne from Tiffon’s old vineyards (many cognac houses just buy grapes, they don’t own vineyards).

There are different versions of this “Tres Vieille” bottling from different regions – for example the more available ones from Fins Bois and Borderies.


Review (2019)

  • Batch: N/A

  • Bottling Code: N/A

  • Bottling Date: ~2016 (purchased 2016, not sure when bottled)

The nose has a beautiful fruity sharpness to it, with notes of fresh cherries, plums, but more intense – in the way that the flavour intensifies as the fruit dries. Lots here: French oak, vanilla, caramel, dark maple syrup, cardamom, clove, nutmeg, cherry pits, rancio, toasted almonds, red currant jam, strawberry jam, and elderberry. Honey really grows with time – strong honey like manuka. Some really nice ethereal aged-spirit notes, too. The palate is oaky (especially with water) and a bit tart but balanced with a heavy dose of rich dried fruit, spice, and French oak characteristics. Nuttiness really comes out on the palate. It’s not too oaky or unbalanced on the palate. The sharpness of the dried fruit remains, and the spiciness is rich. Too bad it’s only 40%, a bit higher ABV would balance the richness of the palate and the finish better.  The finish is lightly tart and oaky, with lots of old wood notes and rancio. The tannins really pick up on the finish, and the oak is a bit too central at the finish – the other notes are there, but they are a bit too masked by the oak. Oddly enough, if you move your tongue in your mouth it seems to release more flavour on the finish.

I really like the nose, I can smell this for a long time and be quite entertained. The palate and finish, while very good, falls a bit short of the nose but are still good.

How about some reference points: St-Remy XO is reminiscent of a light unaged fruit spirit compared to this (age really does show up in side-by-side tastings); it is very rich compared to many of the spicy, fruity, and somewhat clean mass market cognacs; it is richer even than some of the old Armagnacs (40+) in my cabinet – but I find Armagnacs tend to lighten favourably with age. Though it has a better nose, this isn’t quite as nicely balanced as Dartigalongue’s 1975 39-year-old Armagnac, which I rate slightly higher. It has perhaps the best nose I’ve ever encountered on a Brandy, Cognac, or Armagnac.

This has been a stunner for every guest I’ve shared it with.

Assessment: Very Highly Recommended.

Value: Low, based on $260.


Review: Pierre Ferrand Renegade Barrel 2 Eau De Vie De Vin Chestnut Wood Finish by Jason Hambrey

Pierre+Ferrand+Renegade+Barrel+2.jpg
ABV
47.1%
Aging
6-26 yrs
Recipe
N/A
Distiller Maison Ferrand (Cognac, France)

Despite coming from a cognac house, this is not a cognac because of its rather unique aging regimen - a chestnut barrel! Apparently, this was a practice before the second world war but it has fallen out of fashion (and regulation – this is called a grade eau de vie because it cannot be called cognac due to the cask type). This is made with a Pierre Ferrand cognac from Ugni Blanc grapes, matured for 5-7 years in 350 litre new and used oak barrels. There is a small amount of 25 year old cognac included as well. Then, the blend is finished in a 225 litre chestnut cask for a year which apparently gives notes of candied fruits, floral, and honey notes. 18 casks went into this release.

Although we don’t see many chestnut casks for whisky or other spirits, they are still used in the production of certain items, like balsamic vinegar.

Currently available at the SAQ in Quebec.


Review (2019)

  • Batch: Renegade Barrel #2, cask 1/18.

  • Bottling Code: 1P020518

  • Bottling Date: 2017

A spicy, oaky nose with charred oak, wood spices, raisins, dried cranberries, black tea, and deep woody notes. It’s quite torn between rich dark fruit, rich oak, and spice. Caramel, fig, berry jams, star anise, pineapple, stewed plums, wet wicker baskets, brazil nuts, and even some woodworking shop notes like leather and maybe furniture polish. I really like that this is bottled at 47.1% since it brings out the wood notes really well.

The palate has lots of wood notes, and, indeed – some chestnut notes. Vanilla, dark chocolate, dried currants, dried cranberries, dried papaya, dried pineapple, chesnut spread, and sweet fresh sawdust. It has some nice, unique roasted notes – like roasted wood, but not oak. It’s richly creamy, but more like a cacao butter than vanilla. The finish is slightly tannic, with dried hibiscus flower, dried cranberries, golden raisins, and buttery wood notes. The finish is deep and complex.

Well, this is quite unique – especially in the unique creaminess and woodiness – it’s one of the rare spirits which is pushing me to increase my tasting vocabulary.

Assessment: Highly recommended. There are some incredibly complex threads woven into this one.

Value: Low, at $136.


Review: Grosperrin 1970 Grande Champagne Cognac by Jason Hambrey

ABV
51.5%
Aging
~46 yrs
Recipe
N/A
Distiller Grosperrin (Cognac, France)

Here is something special - not only an old Grande Champagne cognac, but one bottled at 51.5%. As far as I know, it was bottled in 2016 - hence 46 years of age, but I haven't confirmed it to my satisfaction hence "~46" years.

I was put onto Grosperrin thanks to the most excellent Serge Valentin at whisky fun. Having had some nice old cognacs already, I was eager to try an old one at a respectable ABV.


Review (2017)

  • Batch: N/A

  • Bottling Code: N/A

  • Bottling Date: ~2016

An oaky, oaky nose - very spicy. Clove, dried blueberry, fennel, black pepper, earth, currants, cinnamon, and candle wax on the nose. The taste is full of oak - wow. Puckering tannins, orange, lots more wood spices. Finish continues with baking spices, mint, dried fruits - retaining a creamy texture. Way bigger than most cognacs!

Really enjoyable, but some things lost in all the oak.

Assessment: Very Highly Recommended.

Value: Low. Unique and excellent, but not cheap (~400$)


Review: Baron Otard VSOP Cognac by Jason Hambrey

ABV
40%
Aging
>4 yrs
Recipe
N/A
Distiller Otard (Cognac, France)

Otard was founded in 1795 by Jean-Baptiste Antoine Otard - in Cognac. The products are named after Jean-Baptiste's grandfather, who fought alongside Louis XIV and was consequently made a baron. Jean-Baptiste bought the beautiful Chateau de Cognac, which still has cognac aging in its cellars. Essentially, it is a castle which has cognac sleeping in its depth - the thick walls provide a relatively constant temperature and humidity.


Review (2016)

  • Batch: N/A

  • Bottling Code: N/A

  • Bottling Date: ~2015

This is some nice spirit here – nice and viscous, incredibly evident as you pour it out of the bottle. Vanilla, rancio, light spices – cinnamon, clove, and light complexity. Quite nice. The palate is viscous, and clean, with raisin holding the fore and baking spices holding the back. Doesn’t develop much but the flavours are well integrated. Slightly bitter on the finish. Slightly elegant too – clean, viscous, light and yet subtle – I enjoy that.

Assessment: Recommended.

Value: Average. Good, and not very expensive in terms of cognac, but not a necessarily high value spirit bottling.