Review: Bearface Canadian Whisky Wilderness Series - Matsutake / by Jason Hambrey

A bottle of bearface beside one of the many shipping containers used to age bearface whisky in various locations. Image courtesy of Bearface Spirits.

Red wine cask, sherry cask, matsutake mushroom cask
Producer Bearface (British Columbia)

Bearface is one of the most interesting brands in Canada to follow – in large part because of their innovative and interesting outlook. It’s impossible to resist trying Bearface if you ever get to hear Andres Faustinelli break down one of his whiskies, component by component, then build it up again and show you how it works together.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, Andres went on a hike with some foragers and found some wild Matsutake mushrooms that had a depth of flavour that would integrate very well into whisky. This sort of pairing fits firmly within the bearface ethos: “Bearface has always been associated with being outside - for me, I enjoy whisky outside anyway. Incorporating the outdoors in ageing and crafting a whisky showcases that you can give a footprint of time and place to a whisky.”

Andres went back to central BC with a foraging team and collected close to 100 kilos to use in the whisky. After inspection and cleaning, the fresh mushrooms were put entirely inside a “teabag” in a cask of mature whisky. After a month and a half, the whisky had a very unexpected and interesting savoury funky component. As Andres remarks, “Think about a martini without the olive. You need that savoury, salty component. That’s how the mushrooms work for us here.”

Of course, blending played a big role in integrating the mushroom component into the whisky. The whisky is blended from amontillado sherry, cream sherry, pedro-ximinez sherry, and some unique casks that still had grape skins from winemaking inside them that give a strong wine-forward character. The emphasis on sherry is very intentional – it helps balance the dried fruit character of bearface whisky with the earthy, cinnamon-like character of the mushroom by building in hazelnut and nutmeg. After all that, it's hard to at least not want to try it, eh?

This one has almost sold out by now, but Bearface has more planned for the wilderness series in 2023.

Review (2022)

  • Batch: 01 Matsutake

  • Bottling Code: N/A

  • Bottling Date: 2022

The nose has matchboxes, fresh oak, woody forest notes, bright corn notes, blueberry, and white pepper. The palate is fruity and comes in with spice, oak, and dried fruit before finishing in a mixture of dried fruit – and it is here that the mushroom really comes out with a very appealing woodiness and savoury character. The finish is full of caramel, vanilla, and herbal, woody, notes – indeed, “forest” is not a bad descriptor. I find this one to have more depth and intrigue than previous Bearface releases.

Recommended (81% of whiskies I’ve reviewed to date get this recommendation or higher).

Value: Average against the market at $50.