Review: Steinhart Rhubarb Gin / by Jason Hambrey

Distiller Steinhart (Arisaig, Nova Scotia)

To create this gin, Steinhart had to source rhubarb which grows like a weed but is expensive to buy (odd that) - so they utilized facebook and all their connections to source all the rhubarb they could locally - and they created this, a rather wonderful gin that is released when the rhubarb is in season and sells out every year.

Review (2019)

  • Batch: N/A

  • Bottling Code: N/A

  • Bottling Date: 2018

This is a rhubarb gin, and perhaps my favourite part is this: it is very clearly rhubarb. They don’t shy away from it, and it is brilliant. The nose has rich vegetal characteristics, earthiness, and some rich woodiness, spice, and bright fruit – but rhubarb is at the center. The palate is tangy, with a nice core of rhubarb and hot spice (like cayenne papper), with a rich rhubarb, spice, and juniper finish. It is quite awesome – easy to drink, yet complex, and still unique and rich. Most excellent.

This is sweetened so it is a bit syrupy – but I quite like it.

I was immediately curious how it compared to Dillon’s Rose Gin, another Canadian sweetened and richly flavoured gin. It’s quite different – a bit more distillate forward, and very much light and floral compared to this – which is rich, thick, and spicy. Both excellent – Dillon’s might be more elegant but this is richer. Which do I prefer? Probably this, but that’s likely a mood question.

Assessment: Very Highly Recommended. I had it at “highly recommended”, but this is so unique in how it utilizes an ingredient I rarely see in gin – rhubarb, and it’s focused around it so beautifully. And it’s one of those gins, for me, that makes me think of childhood and rhubarb pies – and it’s so special to have food or drink bring you back to good early memories.