Review: Steinhart Dry Gin / by Jason Hambrey

Distiller Steinhart (Arisaig, Nova Scotia)

The first producer of gin in Nova Scotia, and a rather good one - this got my attention at the World Gin Awards (judging was blind, I found out later what it was) where it eventually picked up the best Canadian “classic” gin. It is made with Prince Edward Island wheat and legitimately fresh ingredients - the citrus peel which goes into this gin is fresh, not dried, from organic fruit. Diligent care is taken in distillation cuts to produce exactly the profile desired, and it’s not just one cut as often seen with whisky. The juniper is from Tuscany as Canada doesn’t get warm enough summers to achieve the flavour profile desired. It is bottled at 47.5%, so it packs a good kick of flavour – and comes in a beautiful blue bottle. It is made from a wheat base combined with 26 botanicals, including rather expensive ones like vanilla and saffron.

Review (2019)

  • Batch: N/A

  • Bottling Code: N/A

  • Bottling Date: 2018

What a beautiful nose as you pour the first glass – bright mixed citrus peel, woody juniper, deep coriander spice, and a light earthiness. The nose is intense, yet balanced – citrus, rhubarb, lemon, coriander, dill seed, cucumber peel, and fruity notes – something like grape – tying everything together. The palate is rich and spicy, balanced between the woody notes, the fruity notes, cucumber, and the spice. There is a slight sweetness which balances the palate quite nicely. A nice mouthfeel, viscous and spicy. The finish is long and developing, with waves of cucumber, spice, juniper, and coriander. The finish is very nice and clean, too.

This might be a touch hot for some, but a touch of water really opens this up and you don’t lose any flavour with some water. Excellent! This is a terrific gin to sip – one of my favourite Canadian gins. Of course, it mixes well too – but some of the subtlety is lost in cold cocktails.

Assessment: Very Highly Recommended. This is nearly a perfect complex gin for me, sipping wise, and it is a masterful mixer - it really is.