Review: Gooderham & Worts Eleven Souls Canadian Whisky / by Jason Hambrey

Gooderham & Worts 11 Souls 2.jpg
Various Casks
Wheat, Rye, Barley & Corn, Whiskies
Distiller Hiram Walker (Windsor, Ontario)

I always enjoy these - this is one of three whiskies in Corby’s limited annual releases in their Rare Range, all premium versions of the standard (and excellent) Lot no. 40, Pike Creek, and Gooderham & Worts. We have Lot no. 40 Cask Strength, focused on pot distilled rye, Pike Creek 21 Year old, focused on barrel finishing, and this - focused on blending. The setup really works. Last year we had a 17 year old wheat, rye, and corn whisky - it was unique and very good.

This whisky is named after the 11 orphans that William Gooderham adopted on his way to Canada - as a tribute, this whisky was blended from 11 spirit types. This is incredibly impressive to blend together such a wide array of flavours into something so cohesive. The blend is composed of:

  • Grains: Brasetto Rye (a very flavorful type of rye that has been in recent production at Hiram Walker), Rye, Rye Malt, Red winter wheat, Barley, Barley Malt, Corn

  • Distillation regimes: column still, double column, still, pot still

  • Woods: Ex-bourbon and new oak

It was bottled at 49% in honour of the address of the old gooderham & worts distillery, 49 Wellington.

Review (2018)

  • Batch: Eleven Souls (2018 Rare Range)

  • Bottling Code: 54SL24 L18213EW131

  • Bottling Date: 2018

The nose is gorgeous. Coconut, oak, beeswax, old corn whisky, sharp baking spices, dried apricot, prunes, uncooked wild rice, semi-dried tomatoes, and light confectionary elements – evolving slowly. Light lilac too – very nice. Adding water opens it up, but it is perfect at 49%. There is a great richness – a great “middle” - to the nose. It certainly demands extra study from my nose – it draws you in beautifully. And it shows a bit of a different side each time you take a look at it.

The palate is rich, varied, and complex – from rich, oily to spicy (cinnamon and clove) to oaky to fruit (mixed dried fruit). The mouthfeel is fantastic – very viscous – and there’s a gradual development from grain notes to fruit notes to sweet, vanilla notes and finally to spice. It tells the story in a measured way, and the core is simple, but the fringes are complex. And the movement in the mouth is amazing – smooth and viscous to slightly drying and still richly mouthcoating, and then the dry-ness fades and then picks up again. Excellent.

The finish is clean and very moreish. Slightly fatty/creamy – it leaves a very pleasant coating of grain and oak on the palate. Lots of creamy grain, baking spices, stone fruit, and dried fruit.

I described more the textures and impacts of the whisky, as opposed to just tasting notes (I could do this too) – because this is the unique and special part about this whisky. It speaks to the quality of the whisky that I can do such a thing. It also has an array of flavours – grain, wood, fruit, spice, candy, floral, and some umami - but my list will make this review a bit long.

Very different than last year’s release, which was a bit narrower and with a very different set of flavours. More oak centred, more biscuit-like, fruity in more of a winey sense, and not as broad, integrated, or complex (though still a fine whisky).

My favourite of the “Rare Range” releases this year.

Very Highly Recommended (18% of all whiskies I’ve reviewed to date get this recommendation or higher).

Value: Very high. $100 is not cheap, but this is a terrific whisky for that price!